Wii Nunchuck LED Addition

This guys turned out way better than mine did.  Don't get me wrong mine looks great but

it took longer than it should.  These instructions come straight from the hack-a-mod web

site.  There are several other posts and sites out there involving the same idea but this

is the only one I could find without broken links.  

Items needed:
1 Tri-wing screw driver. (just google tri-wing to find one to buy)
1 LED color of your choice (3mm)
1 12v resistor (if you care about battery life)
1 nunchuck
1 15watt soldering iron
solder
electrical tape

First use your Tir-wing screw driver to unscrew the nunchuck. Force off the top as it has 2 clips that it connects to.  (kaokensho note for the novice: search ebay for bulk deals on tri-wing screw drivers + NDS hinges or something like that.  Chances are you can get a tri-wing + parts for the same price as buying it by itself.)
Second, bend your LED to look like picture one (the long leg of the LED is the positive ( + ) on and the short is the negative ( - ) . If you want to save battery power, cut some of a leg off and add a resistor to it. Place a piece of electrical tape on the nunchuck PCB board to avoid shorts.
(kaokensho note for the novice: the longer lead of your LED goes to the positive.  Also notice that there is electrical tape over the board to prevent any shorts!)
Then you are going to solder the legs of the LED to the test points on the nunchuck that I have pointed out for you (if you have trouble with the small test points i have listed alternates). Plug the nunchuck into your wiimote to test it out.
If you get your light to well... light up, you've done it right. Put the guts of your nuchuck back into its body and screw it back in. And thats it!!!! 

-kaokensho

MEGA DOOM

I have no prob admitting to being a fan one of video games most well known icons, Mega Man.  I listen to The Megas righteous tribute rock, paste mega art work on everything, play Mega Man 2 semi-regularly just to keep fresh.  So when I finally stumbled on this...well I had to play it.  Problem is I can't seem to find it anywhere!  The project started in 2009 and has since become difficult to find.   Full info can be found at DOOM Wiki which is where this little snippet comes from:

MM8BDM strives to unify Doom-style gaming with Mega Man's game world.

All of the graphics have been changed to the colorful 8-bit Mega Man graphics. A number of new graphics were also added.

The default weapon is Mega Man's Mega Buster for all robots.

Most weapons have been changed to fire projectiles rather than use hitbox detection. There are several weapons which use hitbox detection, though these weapons aren't necessarily more powerful than the projectile weapons.

There are 60 new weapons the player can use; each Robot Master's weapon is in the game, as well as some extras!

Every Robot Master from Mega Man 1-6 is playable, as well as various other characters from the series.

Every character has been given a number of new animation frames as well, since none of them possessed the other four angles of movement that Doom characters do.

In fact, all moving 2D objects have a newly-made full range of animation frames! (As well as the occasional stationary 2D object.)

A number of items in the game which the player can use to help them along.

An impressive amount of new deathmatch levels -- 53 in total -- as well as 9 capture the flag stages.

A single player story mode, where the player works their way through the robot tournament, fighting computer-controlled opponents and many deadly bosses.

Since I started drafting this post I finally found the official MM8BD web site.  It is here that you can find releases, forums and all things required to rock out with RockMan....

http://cutstuff.net/mm8bdm/?cat=19

That horrible...horrible...MegaMan movie.  "Where did Dr. Light put that self destruct button!?!?" 

-kaokensho

iCade

I love amazon, even if I don't buy a product from them they're a great source of product info from suckers just like me.  When I saw the above image I decided to search it out on amazon.com.  Turns out there are a few different schemes.  The following is a well written product review by J. Harvey that answered all but one question....

       First I should mention that the iCade cabinet design may look like the picture on this page, or one with a more rainbow look to it. Don't worry though, it looks great. Very 80s.
       The hardware itself is excellent. The joystick and buttons are super-responsive, just like a real arcade machine. Assembly was a little annoying; the screws and holes didn't always line up too well. Once you get it together, though, the construction is solid.   It uses two AA batteries for power, and comes with them, which is nice. There's a port for an AC adapter, too, but it doesn't come with that and the manual doesn't give its specifications. It says you can buy one on ION Audio's website, but even now (March 2012) it doesn't appear that you can. I asked ION about this and they said that batteries provide 70 hours of use, so the lack of an official AC adapter isn't a big deal. They also told me the AC adapter you need is 5V DC, 110V AC, 500 mA pin negative, so if you want one you may be able to find one on the internet somewhere.
      There's no power switch, you turn the iCade on by pressing one of the buttons or moving the stick. There's a lighted coin slot on the front that acts as a power light. When you don't use the iCade for a few minutes, it turns off automatically, which is nice for conserving battery life.
       The iCade connects to the iPad over Bluetooth. It works fine, though you'll want to turn the Bluetooth on the iPad off when you're not using a related app, since the iPad thinks it's a keyboard and won't display the on-screen keyboard in other apps, like Safari, while it's connected.  The only software that supported the iCade on launch was the Atari's Greatest Hits app, which comes with one free game. At first it was Pong, but now it's Missile Command. It may change to a different game later. The app has 18 arcade games and 82 Atari 2600 games. You can buy a 4-pack of related games, like Centipede and Millipede for both arcade and 2600, for $0.99, or you can buy all 100 games for $14.99.
       I bought all the games for simplicity's sake, though they're not all gems. Most of the arcade games are good or at least OK, but frankly, most of the 2600 games suck. Backgammon? Circus Atari? Concentration? Really? Some surprised me, like Battlezone, which is almost better than the arcade version. Some classics like Adventure are here too, plus unreleased prototypes like Combat 2. A lot of the arcade games are vector games, like Asteroids, Battlezone, and Tempest to name a few.
      The iCade supports portrait and landscape mode, though the iPad is a lot more secure in portrait. In portrait, you place the iPad between two ridges that make up a stand, the front of which is notched so you can access the home button. In landscape, you place it in a little groove in front of the portrait stand, and unlike in portrait, it can slide around in there. For either position, if you have an iPad case, you'll probably have to take it off in order to get it to fit.  Whichever orientation you choose, you can fiddle with the settings in Atari's Greatest Hits to have it display the way you want. For most games you just have to change the "Orientation" option, but for other games you have to change the "Control type" to Arcade. It would be nice if there was an option that changed it globally, but it does save your options for each game, so you only have to change it for each one once. I tend to like portrait mode better; the iCade was obviously designed for this mode, and the arcade games look more authentic.
      Unfortunately, you can't adjust the joystick sensitivity in the app, so it's much more difficult to control games with paddles, like Pong, Warlords, and Breakout. I actually prefer to use the touch controls for those games. For most of the other games, though, the iCade controls are far superior.
      There are plenty of third-party games now. The most recent, updated list is at [...]. For some reason, iCade-compatible games can't be listed as such on the App Store. I haven't tried too many of them, but if your iPad is jailbroken you can get iMAME4All, which supports pretty much every classic arcade game imaginable. If you know what MAME is, that may be enough to push you to get this.
      Overall, I don't think it's worth buying an iPad specifically for this, since you could put together your own full-size arcade machine from various parts (cabinet, screen, PC with MAME, speakers, etc) for not much more. Still, if you have an iPad already, it's great fun and very worth the price of the iCade. I got it for $100 right at launch and that was probably too much, but I couldn't resist. Even when I'm not using it, it makes a great conversation piece. If this were $50, I'd give it five stars.

-kaokensho

Bacteria's "Mini-Platform" Plug N Play Mod

I found this on engadget.com and while I mixed feelings about it one things for sure,  There's nothing else like it that I've seen.  Like most projects I post here this took quite a bit of time.  Confused?  Watch the vid!

By Donald Melanson  posted September 2nd 2008 12:48PM

Console modder "Bacteria" sure managed to turn a few heads with his previous multi-platform console mod, and he's now done it again with his new so-called Mini-Platform Plug 'n' Play Console System, which boasts the same, uh, distinct look we've come to expect. At the moment, this one relies solely on a variety of TV plug 'n' play game systems for its gaming options, which Bacteria converted into a more convenient cart form, although he also promises to make a GBA add-on for the system "in due course." As you can see in the video after the break, despite appearances, the system appears to work quite well, and you can even find step-by-step plans for building your own by hitting up the read link below.

Leave-kaokensho

1st Gen Sega CD PC

Yes, while PC modded cases are more popular than ever, there are a few that fit right into the theme of certain fabulous blogs.  Introduce the Sega CD PC.  This project was actually completed in 2004 and posted on a great site full of PC case mods called, "mini-itx.com."  I found this link in Joe Grand's book Game Console Hacking, which is slightly outdated but extremely informative and a good source for brain storms.  Check it out!

The "SEGA-ITX"By Jay Phillips - Posted on August 25, 2004

Introduction

After seeing all the great mini-ITX projects I was tempted to make one of my old 8-bit computers into a PC, but not being able to use the original keyboard was somewhat of a disappointment. Also I would have to invest in a laptop CDROM and a small HD in order to cram it all in. What I wanted was a mini-ITX project that would cost me as little as possible using parts I had from other PC's. Then while putting Christmas decorations away in the basement I noticed the old SEGA CD box I used to store old computer parts and voila I had my next project!

The motherboard I chose was the EPIA M10000 Nehemiah core 1GHz with CLE266 North Bridge. For parts I already had a stick of 256MB DDR, a DVD ROM, and an old 10 Gig HD. Everything else is built in to the MB. All I purchased was the MB, a power supply, and some buttons.

The original SEGA CD system was perfect for my project. The CD case is very tall and the original Genesis sits on top. After gutting the insides of both cases, saving the parts for nostalgia sake, I test fit a DVD and HD to see what configurations were possible. I hadn't yet purchased the MB so I wasn't sure how high it was.

My first arrangement looked something like this:

You can see at this point the right side of the CD case contains just a fan (not tied down). Notice I was able to save the SEGA CD face and with minimal trim fit it to the DVD.

I used metal HD mounts on the sides of the DVD as horizontal spacers and my tie down of choice, bailing wire, to fasten the drive to the bottom of the case :) The DVD barely fits in the CD case. The SEGA CD is actually smaller than a standard CD drive. I had to try several IDE cables to find one that was thin enough, and I had to cut off about an eighth if an inch of the top of the power cable so the wires would bend around. You can see the plastic piece still hanging on the wires.

I cut a hole through the top of the CD case and in to the bottom of the Genesis case big enough to fit the HD on top (Don't do this! Read more later).

Here you can see the HD barely sticking up through the bottom along with the cables from below.

Once the MB arrived I immediately realized it wouldn't fit in the Genesis case with the HD sticking through, so don't try doing this. Just cut a small hole in the two cases to let the power and cables stick through. Having a big hole made it hard to mount the MB.

Here is plan B with the HD next to the DVD. Believe it or not I used Legos as spacers to raise the DVD up. The left side of the DVD still has a metal HD mount attached as a horizontal spacer, but the mount on the right side of the DVD is now screwed into the lower 2 holes as a riser for the HD. To cut down on vibration and to fasten it I used double faced thermal tape.

I wanted to use the SEGA power switch and volume control on top but that didn't work out. There wasn't enough vertical clearance with all the buttons hanging down so I had to cut off the bottoms (notice lots of black plastic chunks lying on the floor). On the back I put nice buttons to turn the system ON/OFF and Reset. I used front panel connectors I had from an old PC and wired them to the new switches, and I also replaced the Power ON LED.

On the back I really didn't want to cut out so much plastic, and using the nice face plate was out of the question with the curved back of the SEGA case, so I only cut out enough space to fit the cables I was most likely to use. With a minimal cut I can access everything except the printer port which I doubt I'll ever use. I may also have to cut out a little more on the right side to reach the top audio connector. The power and reset buttons can be seen here and the big ugly internal power supply cables going into the top and bottom. I have looked into replacing those with one cable from a nice external supply but from what I have read the external supplies don't have enough watts for full size CD or DVD drives.

I made a "cable" out of three old power cables. I cut the ends off each cable then wired the ends to a 12 position barrier strip. A tip if you're doing this at home, make sure all three power cords are cut to the same length or you'll have to unwire, cut, and rewire it, and make sure the cables aren't twisted all around each other. I'm not opening the case again to get pictures, it's too packed, so I will describe what I did. I looked at the power connector on the motherboard and mapped out the wire colors and did some research on the web about ATX power cables. There are basically 9 different wires, +3v, +5v, +12v, -5v, -12v, Ground, and 3 wires that remotely turn the power supply on/off from the button on the front of your PC.

Inside the three power cords are 3 wires. I labelled each power cord A, B, and C, and wired them to the left side of a barrier strip. Then I cut all the power cords to the PC and wired in only one of each color wire, red, orange, yellow, black, white, green, gray, blue, and purple to the right side of the strip. The other end of the power cords I wired in the same order as the first strip to a second strip, so labeling your cables is important. And this is were it gets tricky. There are about 10 black wires, 8 orange, etc. that need wired into the corresponding strips to match those on the power supply end. You can get at most 3 or 4 wires wrapped together to fit in a strip, so I had to be creative which is why I chose a 12 position strip. There are 3 unused connections. Black and orange are the most common wires so I "jumpered" two of the extra connections to black by running wires between them, and the other connection I wired to orange. Then I divided up the black and orange wires into groups of 3 or 4 and wrapped and wired them into the left and right sides of the strip. The rest of the colors only had 1 or 2 to connect and were much easier. I also cut and wired in the two IDE power cables. Then used tie downs to hold that mess down to the case.

On the power supply end there were even more wires, but since I was only using one of each color wire the rest were unused. I cut all of them off and covered the ends with electrical tape to avoid contact. Then I was left with the three cables. I bought a plastic tube from Radio Shack which is split down the center. Simply shove the cables down in the tube from one end to the other. Then I made the hole in the SEGA case bigger to fit the power tube. And finally I opened up the power supply and put the strip, the tapped off wires, and the end of the power tube inside and sealed it back up. Now it looks nice and professional. ;)

Here is the SEGA-ITX surfing the web at the VIA site. Thank you VIA! At this time I have no plans for a floppy drive. I installed everything from CD boot disks I made.

I added a fan to the side of the system since there's not much room for air circulation. It looks rather large from this angle but its really just a cpu fan. I may get a thinner one so it doesn't stick out so far. It's a little on the loud side so I used the trick of wiring it from the +12v to +5v and make it run at about +7v. Truthfully from what I've seen the system never gets hotter than "warm", unless you're running the dvd a lot, so I doubt you really need an external fan. The yellow HD activity LED I decided to wire into the hole marked for headphones on the front, and I taped off the gamepad connector holes. In order to reach the DVD drawer open button I had to drill a small hole in the face plate. I hated having to do that, but that's the only way you can open it from DOS. I use the old Apple paper clip trick to open the drawer :)

I cut down the cartridge door housing to make it fit again and put in the extra USB connections that came with the board. I had to cut off the firewire connectors because they were right up against the power connector and wouldn't fit. Here is my MuVo "cart" plugged in while I load up some mp3's. And to keep the SEGA case from sliding around on top of the CD case I used double faced tape in various places to stick it together. You can see the VIA EPIA mini-ITX sticker on the corner there :)

And here is the SEGA-ITX hooked up to a 15' black LCD, black cordless keyboard/mouse, black joystick, and black speakers. Looks nice in black!

-kaokensho